Mrs. Lincoln's Dressmaker by Jennifer Chiaverini

Elizabeth Keckley was born a slave, the mulatto daughter of a house slave and her master.  She learned to sew the complicated dresses of antebellum southern fashion and used her skill to raise enough money to buy her freedom.  She moved to Washington DC and soon became a modiste (personal seamstress) of some of the city's most influential people, like Mrs. Jefferson Davis, and eventually Mary Lincoln. Over time she and Mrs. Lincoln formed a close friendship and Mrs. Lincoln came to trust and rely on Elizabeth in the times of her deepest sorrows. Elizabeth's friendship and service to Mrs. Lincoln continued for years, and Elizabeth was amazingly patient with Mrs. Lincolns eccentricities until Elizabeth made a terrible mistake that severed their relationship forever.

This is a thoroughly engaging and well researched historical fiction.  Chiaverini goes into detail about Mrs. Lincoln's personality flaws, and her struggles with debt, but over all, the book paints the controversial figure in a favorable light, and as the victim of an unscrupulous society. She also depicts President Lincoln so sympathetically and warmly that the reader feels as if they have had the opportunity to actually meet the great man.  The book is primarily based on Mrs. Keckley's personal memoir, but also refers to news articles and other historical sources. I enjoyed looking up pictures of the different dresses described on the internet as I read along.  I remember that this book was really popular when it came out, especially with the book clubs, and I can see why.(2013, 356 p.)